Steps for Making Your Own Silicone Seam Sealer Purchase the following items.
They should be are available from most local hardware stores.
- GE Silicone II clear tub and sink caulk – The small tube will make enough to seal several tents. The large tube will make enough to seal everything you own and then some.
Mineral Spirits – Commonly used for cleaning paint brushes. Small brush to apply the sealer – A 3/4" foam brush works well.
Electric Drill with Paint Stirrer attachment.
Dilute Silicone In a glass jar, mix one part mineral spirits with one part silicone caulk (1 oz mineral spirits and 1 oz silicone should be enough.)
Using the drill with paint stirrer attachment, mix well. (Hint: You can mix by hand with a regular paint stirrer, but caulk is stiff, so will take much longer to mix.)
When mixture is the right consistency, it will be smooth and milky, and flow smoothly when applied. If it’s too thick or lumpy, the waterproofing won’t flow well into the seams, or be absorbed by the exposed threads. Sealing Your Tent
Seal the Tent – Working in a well ventilated area, pour a small amount into a paper cup, and close the jar to keep rest of sealer from thickening.
Use a small brush to apply a thin coat of sealer to all exposed outside seams. Spread seams open flat and hold them taut while applying, to ensure even coverage.
If sealer thickens while applying, stir in a few drops of mineral spirits. Use waxed paper to separate overlapping areas of wet sealer.
Strip the Floor – Adding a series of strips with the sealer to the floor of the tent will reduce the tendency of your sleeping pad from sliding around on the silicone nylon floor.
Drying your Tent – Hang your tent, or lay it out flat, and cure for at least 8 to 12 hours after sealing. Hanging with simple wire hooks on the overhead support brackets of a garage door works well, as does hanging over a shower rod with floor sides together.
Once cured, the sealer dries to a clear matte finish that is nearly invisible, and will be both durable and flexible.
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